Best Traditional Indian
Indian cuisine has been interpreted so clumsily stateside that Tamarind's
Intentions — to server traditional sub continental dishes in a tautly
stylish environment — seemed too ambitious at first. But the restaurant
has pulled off its goal and been a raging success ever since it opened in
January. Chef Raji Jallepalli Reiss, who owns the renowned Raji's in Memphis,
offers a menu that renews our sense of discovery without relying on misguided
fusions; Witness dishes like lucknow ki bhajia (fritters made from spinach
leaves, banana and cheese), nargisi kofta (lotus root dumplings), konju
pappas (shrimp cooked in a sauce seasoned with curry leaves, smoked tamarind and
coconut) and tandoori scallops served in a bowl made from fried potato strips (pictured).
The spice for which the restaurant is named acts as a tantalizing motif: It serves as a
bittersweet flavoring in many of the dishes, a dip for the complimentary flatbread, and
in a delicious twist, a signature ingredient in house cocktails like the Tamarind
margarita and Cosmo (okay, so that's a tiny concession to fusion). Traditional in its
allegiances but distinctly Manhattan in its style, Tamarind has hit the sweet spot
that eludes many of its competitors.